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  1. #1

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    Recoil management

    So I just bought a 300 win mag. Currently a 260 rem is my hardest hitter this has no comp and a stock pad. I don’t have any issues shooting 50 plus rounds. However I have not ever shot a 300 wm. It has a threaded barrel and a factory pad. It is a cheap light hunting rifle and will not likely shoot it too much outside of hunting. Would like to be able to go to the range here and there with it 20-30 rounds in a sitting max. Hoping to be ready to use this by next year and would be interested to know what if any pad or comp you recommend. I like jcomp as they have good recoil management without feeling like they punch you in the face (blow back and yes I know that’s an exaggeration). Thanks for suggestions and help.


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  2. #2
    Muddydawg75's Avatar
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    I use my .300s in a heavy lead sled and it doesn’t transmit much to my shoulder..... and when I’m hunting, the recoil doesn’t matter.... too much adrenaline.

    The last 3 years using my .338wm for bear, the shots felt like a .22......


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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddydawg75 View Post
    I use my .300s in a heavy lead sled and it doesn’t transmit much to my shoulder..... and when I’m hunting, the recoil doesn’t matter.... too much adrenaline.

    The last 3 years using my .338wm for bear, the shots felt like a .22......


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    I use bipods. Never used a sled and don’t own one or see a need to... thanks though.


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  4. #4
    SAWMAN's Avatar
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    Think P.A.S.T. It is a recoil pad that you wear to cover your shoulder. I have had a couple of them for about 30 years now. They have been between me and the stock of some abnormally heavy thumping chamberings like my 416Rigby,458Lott,45-90Express,and 10ga "carbine.
    Mine stay in my range box.
    They simply WORK. --- SAWMAN
    Why just dance when you can "rock and roll".
    STONER 63A ( MK-23/XM-207 )
    XM177E2

  5. #5

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    If the barrel is already threaded you can install a brake really easy. I have one on my 300 and can shoot it all day with no issues. It is a Kimber sub alpine weighing it at just under 8 pounds with the scope and sling

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  6. #6
    Shane P's Avatar
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    I've put mercury tubes in one of mine. Drill a hole in the stock behind pad and glue it in. Bad thing is it adds 5pounds to the weight.

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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4jorgies View Post
    If the barrel is already threaded you can install a brake really easy. I have one on my 300 and can shoot it all day with no issues. It is a Kimber sub alpine weighing it at just under 8 pounds with the scope and sling

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    Right that’s what I was asking does it matter what break I use.


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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane P View Post
    I've put mercury tubes in one of mine. Drill a hole in the stock behind pad and glue it in. Bad thing is it adds 5pounds to the weight.

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    Thank you for the suggestion but I don’t want to add weight to it.


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  9. #9
    Shane P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamikaze007 View Post
    Thank you for the suggestion but I don’t want to add weight to it.


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    I don't blame you, i'd put a brake on it.

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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamikaze007 View Post
    Right that’s what I was asking does it matter what break I use.


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    What is the diameter of your barrel? I have 2 rifles with brakes installed on them. One is the Fat Bastard Gen 1 it is big and draws a lot of attention but also extreamly effective. The other is made by Kimber specifically for the narrow barrels on their mountain rifle.

    Depending on the thread and barrel size will dictate what brake you can install. If the brake is larger than OD of your barrel a good machinist can taper it to match.

    A brake with ports in an equal radius all the way around will not need to be timed and will be the easiest to install.

    Vias makes a good one for sporting rifles the Fat Bastard is closer to a tactical type of brake. It has no ports on the bottom to prevent dust clouds when shooting prone.

    What model and brand is your rifle?

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